Coast 2 Coast with Phil

First, the ride:  Before heading our from the campground, was greeted by Peter, the campground ‘host.’  He was out walking their puppy of nine weeks, and congratulated me on the bike ride.  It was interesting to me, that our journey has been longer than their puppy, Kya, had been around!

The morning was cool, with low hanging clouds.  There had been overnight rain, that caused acorns to drop onto the van with loud cracks!  The pavement had dried, so all that I took along was my light rain jacket (and not full rain gear).

Leaving from the campsite, again took me to the shores of Long Lake, and through town before heading to the Coast.  There were walkers and joggers out-and-about, so signs-of-life amidst the low lights of the morning.

The first 30 miles or so seemed to be only up or down, with very little flat.  I passed by. Freeman Road (the last name of my sister and brother-in-law), and passed through Morin (my daughter and son-in-law’s last name).  Also, I added a new country, Poland, to the collection of towns-bearing-names-of-countries.  The route took me through forests and neighborhoods.

I stopped at a Citgo Minimart in New Gloucester, where Ashley was working the counter.  She said our journey, and my comment of ‘Be safe.  Have fun.  Spread joy.’ Made her day!

When in Durham, stopped again, and met Karen while exiting the convenience store.  She indicated that she was always excited to meet the cyclists on the way to the Coast.

When reaching Durham, I diverted to head South toward our final destination for the day.  I followed Google Maps directions from Durham to Old Orchard Beach that would take me along the Coast through Portland.  While biking through Yarmouth, I caught up to Chris, who was out riding before heading to her son’s soccer match.  She is a family practice physician, and we discussed a few different topics as we rode along together.  She shared some interesting insights into ‘village living,’ as she change her ride to match my direction for some distance.  It was great to be riding with another!!

When getting close to Portland, I was passed and was able to catch up to a pace line of three that were heading to Portland.  Abe, Ben and Sam were out for a brisk Saturday ride.  Sam invited me to ‘hang on’ while we paced at ~20+ mph.  It was exhilarating to be joining the group.  Abe had recently moved from Bend, Oregon.  Ben had been to Colorado to do Ride the Rockies a few times.  Sam was great to give me directions to the trail in Portland that would take me away from some of the traffic, and follow the water to South Portland.

On this beautiful and sunny (now) day in Portland the trail had abundant pedestrian traffic!  Once I reached South Portland, I needed to shift to the street to be able to ride.  Amazingly, in my path on the street, Cathy appeared.  She had been exploring, and noticed that my riding would take her close.  She had seen an article pointing out ice cream shops to visit in New England, and had been at one, Gorgeous Gelato, one street over.  She recommended that I stop there, and I couldn’t resist, though the road to the shop included cobblestones, bricks, and brick steps1 Had espresso and Boston Crème, which were delicious!

Cathy and I decided that I would meet her at the campground, and we would bike together to the pier at Old Orchard Beach.  We found the pier and the ocean waiting for the obligatory and celebratory dipping of front tire and lifting one’s bike pictures.

During this day’s ride there were many thoughts and recollections of our journey that went through my mind.  The ‘distractions’ of conversations during the day were very much welcomed, as I remembered my Mom and Dad, my Uncle George, Nick, Tim, Paul, Sarah, Mark, Carol, and all the organizations with which I have been associated.  I also thought of folks I wouldn’t have met, or gotten to know so well, without the journey, and the places, particularly the small towns, through which we traveled and have memories!

I will ‘document’ appreciations and supporting organizations in some Coast2Coast +Days.  For the moment, thank you for your patience and persistence in checking into this blog!  It certainly felt, even when riding alone, that Cathy and I were far from alone on our journey!

Be safe!  Have fun!  Spread joy!

The day started out wet!  The pavement was still very wet from the overnight rain, and the clouds/mist hung very low.  After a brief stretch in North Woodstock, went through Lincoln, New Hampshire which is home to the Loon Mountain Resort.  I had skied Loon Mountain a number of times in the 1970s, but, without snow, I didn’t recall much.

Began the climb up to Kancamagus Pass (nine+ miles) that was beautiful and magical with the low hanging clouds about the mountains.  At the first lookout parking area, stopped to take off some of my rain gear, and met Amanda, who was on her way down from the Pass.  She is from Ontario, and works marketing for health care.  I wondered since health care in Canada is socialized, what is involved.  She responded that the marketing effort is directed to the practitioners.  She was on a circuit, and had come from the Maine coast/Portland and was headed back to Ontario through Vermont.

After reaching the Pass (another worthy climb), there was an exhilarating descent, including some wild turkeys crossing the road.  The route veered from the highway, taking me through another covered bridge.  Came across someone who asked me whether I knew where the Boulder Loop Trail was located, and the best I had to offer was that I had seen the sign to the parking lot, where he had parked his car.  He had five young men in tow, so I hoped he would find the trailhead.

Stopped at the Irving Mini Mart in Conway, where Sherri helped me.  When leaving, Luke (from Southern New Hampshire) asked me where one might find good beer in town.  I confessed that I am not a local, and was ‘just passing through.’  He congratulated me on the journey!

Continued on to Fryeburg, where I hoped to grab a quick meal.  Entered the Fryeburg House of Pizza, and was served by Lisa.  She greeted me with a smile, and anticipated that I would need a second refreshing glass of soda!  Had a ‘not small’ plate of spaghetti, after Lisa suggested the Italian sausage and Parmesan cheese!

Passed through the second Sweden of the journey, and passed a photo onto Daniel.  He responded that the third (and real) Sweden would be my hat trick for which to look forward!

After passing through Bridgtown, made it to Naples, where I met Cathy outside of the local library.  We went to get ice cream before going to our campsite for the evening.  We watched another episode of ‘How to Get Away with Murder,’ showered, and prepped for what is planned to be the last dash to the Coast.  (We have even started to plan a few days in Maine and then a stop in Boston for Labor Day weekend and a Red Sox game at Fenway!)

Hoping the Portland waterfront trail is not too crowded tomorrow!

After a ‘hearty breakfast’ of egg, cheese and sausage, plus coffee, stated the morning from Sunny Brook Farm with a 300+ foot climb.  After an overnight rain, the pavement was amazingly dry, which is good.  

The roads are mostly good through the remaining miles of Vermont, with the mountains and hillsides green, and the roosters crowing to meet the new day!  

Worried with the notice that there would only be clearance of eleven feet, nine inches ahead, and whether the van would be able to get through safely.  Cathy had passed me, and made it through the bridge with the van unscathed.  She took a nice pic of me passing through the bridge.  Stopped at Habbets MiniMart in East Thetford, and enjoyed a pint of chocolate milk!

Crossed the bridge from Vermont to New Hampshire, and took a quick right onto Route 10.  Just after the bridge, the road is actually dirt, which became pavement.  Came to a second covered bridge along the road, and met a father, son and son’s wife at the bridge.  The three of them are from the Netherlands, and are in the White Mountains for a niece’s wedding (including a hike up to the wedding site!).  We exchanged taking pictures for each of us, and talked for a bit.  The father and son are both physicians, and the spouse is a registered nurse, thus all in health care.  We wished each other well on our respective journeys.

Further along Route 10 is the town of Orford, New Hampshire, which also has a bridge connecting to Vermont.  On recommendation from a helpful woman walking her dog, she suggested Jan’s Fairlee Diner, which is just back across the Connecticut River/Vermont state line.  The owner/Jan is the fry cook, Carrie (her daughter) and Sue were the wait staff for the morning.  The Diner is very close to the Northern Tier Route, and seemed to be the only place offering breakfast along the way.  The second breakfast of French Toast, home fries, eggs, and ham, was very good, and hit the spot for fuel for the day!

Cathy and I met again at the Moosilauke Library located within the Woodstock Town Center.  We decided we would lunch at the Woodstock Brewery and Inn along Main Street.  Kevin waited on our table, and anticipated our needs.  Great lunch!

We showered, napped, had dinner, then ice cream before retiring for the night.  Another fine day, and getting closer to the Coast!

Rest day:  Have been trying to take one day a week for some rest.  It was a bit more leading to RAGBRAI, as the timing was just a bit imperfect, I.e., Daniel and I rode too far and too fast.  We ended up spending a couple of days in Des Moines with friends from the Chicago area (Steve and Deanna) and Topeka (Stefanie), after I had taken Daniel to a ‘great’ American dinner of salad bar steak, potato, asparagus, and crème-de-menthe on vanilla ice cream.  Hopefully, something he will recall fondly (versus Swedish fish balls).  [Inside joke!]

Cathy and I had planned and arranged for a rest day after crossing into Vermont via a ferry from Ticonderoga, New York.  Unfortunately, when we met in Ticonderoga we learned that the ferry to cross Lake Champlain there had been closed indefinitely.  (Note to self:  Pay more attention to the route addenda!]

When we did get to Ticonderoga, we flexed and drove to our planned rest day location of Waterbury, Vermont.  The driving route took us over a bridge across the Lake, and over many twists and turns to arrive in Waterbury.  I was struck by the relative flatness of Western Vermont versus my fond recollections of coming to Vermont to ski in the 1970’s.

We showered and went to dinner at Prohibition Pig (Pro Pig), as suggested by Don, our host.  We sat at the bar, and Cathy struck up a conversation with her neighbor, John, as she was interested in what he and his companion had ordered.  (They shared that she worked at the restaurant, and also frequently came there to eat, so their thoughts and comments carried some weight.). John also bikes, and is interested in our journey.

The next morning, we had wonderful breakfasts at Maxis, and took in some of the ambiance of the Historic District.  We returned to our rest-day-home for Cathy to work, and for me to co some catching up on correspondence, etc.

Cathy had procured two tickets to the Ben and Jerry’s Factory Tour, and we walked there (not the bets route).  During the tour we found out that B&J’s has ~70 flavors in circulation at any time, AN D they retire 10 flavors each year, meaning that there are 10 new flavors each year!!  We also stopped at the Scoop Stand to have ice cream lunch!  We walked back in the rain, using a different route that included the Waterbury Community Trail (definitely a suggestion). We had a lovely dinner at The Reservoir to close out our rest day in Waterbury.

Day 79 Ride:  In the morning, we did not rush, and took a path back to New York across the bridge, so I could ride from New York to Vermont.  Crossing over the bridge, you realize how large Lake Champlain really is, and how it dominates the border between New York and Vermont.  The addenda indicated to ride mostly East toward Middlebury, where the college has a collection of beautiful buildings.

From East Middlebury, there begins the first climb I experienced East of Rockies that compares.  It was an eight-mile climb, with some stretches of 8-16%.  The ride was interrupted by several construction zones that narrowed to a single lane, with alternating traffic flows.  The floggers were kind, and facilitated my momentum when possible!

The descent from the summit of the climb was exciting, with some 12% grades pushing my speed close to the motorized vehicle limits!  I stopped at The Heart of Hancock for a lunch of fried cos sandwich and a milk shake, and was served attentively by Christina!  She commented that I had come a long way from Oregon!  From Hancock, the route seemed to flow alongside the White River.  During August the water flow is quite low compared to the rush from the Spring thawing.

Cathy and I again met at the library in Sharon, where she had been working.  Since our Harvest Hosts for the evening were right on the route for the next day, we decided that I would ride the 2.6 miles (and 550 feet of vertical.  Tomorrow will take us into New Hampshire, our fourteenth state of the journey!

Started in the rain and mist wearing my full rain gear for the first time since acquiring the Showerspass rain jacket in Missoula, Montana.  Definitely an indication of how fortunate the weather has been for our journey.  Not too long after departing, the rain let up, but the pavement continued to have water that would be kicked up by the bicycle tires and passing vehicles.  

I think that I have become more relaxed on the intermittent climbs, with today’s reaching 8-12% along the way.  The many dips, valleys and hills allow for ‘spring-boarding’ from descents to ascents, though not completely propelling one to the next ‘summit.’  The trees continue to provide much shade along the route.

Stopped at a park in Newcomb, where I met up with Cathy who had prepared a ‘second breakfast’ for us!  I tossed my heaviest rain gear into the van, but took my light rain jacket as ‘insurance.’  We agreed to meet again in Severance, and decide whether continue riding for the day, or to divert early to Waterbury for our planned rest day (and tour visit of Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream and Flavor Graveyard.

Before reaching Severance, the route took me onto a dirt and gravel road, somewhat challenging for me on my road bike.  I called Cathy, who was close to Severance, to see if there was a different direction for which I could travel on paved surfaces.  We did meet in Severance, but it seemed no more than a post office.  We agreed to again meet at the library in Ticonderoga, and from there continue into Vermont via the ferry.

The route into Ticonderoga had a wickedly exciting downhill into town.  When I met Cathy at the library, she shared that the ferry there was closed indefinitely.  We flexed to drive to Waterbury ‘directly,’ enjoy our rest day and tour, and come back to NY the day after to cross into Vermont on my bike.  

The route that Google Maps took us went through Western Vermont, and included many twists, turns and some construction.  I was surprised by how flat the Western part of the State is, as my prior experience of Vermont had been for skiing and leaf peeping, which had taken me through the mountains and hilly terrain of the State.

Arriving in Waterbury, Don introduced us to our ABNB/home for the next two nights.  He pointed out some of the features and idiosyncrasies of the wonderful Victorian place, as well as some of the eateries, etc. available in the town.

We dined at the ProPig, and was served by Megan, and met John.  John is also a cyclist and had some interest in the details of our journey.

We returned to the ABNB, and watched an episode of ‘How to Get Away with Murder’ before retiring to our books and slumber for the night!

The roads were good today, though the traffic along Route 28 was heavier than anticipated.  While on the Moose River Bridge, the whine of the passing vehicles almost sounded like the ping-ping-ping of shots from a video game.  The terrain was very much a continuation of the up-and-down as I passed each of the many lakes along the way.  Stopped at the Citgo near Sixth Lake, that boasts of a ‘wide variety of IPA’s on Aisles 2 and 3.’  

Came across a few single bicyclists heading in the opposite direction, and one group of three ‘serious’ cyclists in a pace line ‘booking it!’

Cathy took time to hike the Blue Mountain Trail, and we arrived closely at the campsite in Lake Durant State Park.  We had time to secure things before some passing rain showers, and were later able to take a walk about the lush campgrounds.  Many campers brought bikes and especially canoes and/or kayaks for which to enjoy the Lake.

The evening/night included a significant rain showers, and the pitter-pat on the vans rooftop was somewhat soothing!  We read our books and retired for the evening, but not before I prepped my rain gear for the next day!

‘Short’ ride today in order to divert to Lyons Falls to visit with Steve and Michelle at their home along the Black River.  Stopped for lunch with Cathy at Milk Plant in West Leyden.  I enjoyed the meat loaf dinner with mashed potatoes!

Rode through Booneville during the Woodsmen’s Field Days.  Lots of vehicles, and for me, thankfully enough ‘shoulder’ to pass to get to Erwin Park to meet Cathy for our quick drive to Michelle and Steve’s Riverhouse.  Their acreage along the River is picturesque, and their home is beautiful and cozy.  I was able to rinse my bike of the dust accumulated from the Erie Canal Trail and otherwise.

We were treated to fantastic hospitality by Michelle and Steve, including a passing thunderstorm!  The electricity was cut off, and despite the interruption, their neighbors and friends (Mike and Kim, and Jim and Beth) brought over some Key Lime pie for a tasty dessert!  We shared stories and life challenges and observations.  Was a lively and fun evening in the candlelight!

Before midnight the power was restored, and Steve served Cathy and I a wonderful breakfast, we were able to hug around before heading back to Booneville to continue our journey.

[Hoping that Milo (their cat) makes his way home!]

Started riding at a ‘respectable’ time of 8A or about. Crossed through many small towns, villages and hamlets, plus a city or two (Oswego and Pulaski?). Maybe a few short stretches of flat, but mostly up and down AND up again!

Stopped for lunch at Annie’s Diner near Pulaski. Annie, the owner, was kind enough to prepare lunch for me before the ‘appointed time.’ She stopped by my table to hear a bit of my story of why the ride and the nine non-profits. She asked how I could keep them all straight! (The Friday special of fried Haddock sandwich and potato salad was grand!)

Jessica, at the Circle K in the Gateway to Tug Hill, was helpful with a briefing on the area! Thanks!

The Tug Hill plateau is a destination for ATV-ing and snowmobiling. The ‘climb’ was more like many small climbs. The Resort is down a long driveway, and the area seems to be quite quiet. Should be a good night of rest!

Daniel and I rode off early onto the Canalway Trail, just a block from where we spent the night.  Initially, the Trail was paved alongside the Erie Canal, and later turned to smooth limestone gravel.  We biked along at a modest pace, as we planned to meet with Cathy at the Muddy Waters Cafe in Palmyra, which is by the Canal.

Daniel and I came across an excursion group that had been biking from Lockport.  The group included an 80-year-old and a 90-year-old!  The director shared that the route I’d be taking through NY/VT/NH/ME was often considered the ‘most challenging’ by cross country riders, as the climbs did not include switchbacks as the climbs across the Rockies and other Western mountains.  He also said that Muddy Waters is the best place to eat lunch in Palmyra!

We met up with Cathy at Muddy Waters for delicious paninis!  Daniel rinsed his bike at the dock, and we exchanged well wishes for the remainder of our journeys.  Daniel headed on toward Albany, and Cathy and I headed toward Maine.  Traveling together on and off has been great fun!  Whether or not my ‘funny’ stories or comments are truly funny, Daniel will chuckle!  Also, his observations of American customs, signage, and what-nots causes one to think and question!  I am sure that Cathy will miss her beer-tasting partner!  While we will miss our riding together, we each have some folks along the way to visit.  Daniel’s most of all as he will meet up with Veronika in New York City for some fun time before returning to Sweden (to plan for Cathy and my visit!).

Jordan and Andrea in Wolcott gave me the focus for the area on apple orchards, which were quite a change from the fields and vineyards preceding.

In Fair Haven (Sterling), Cathy and I stayed at the Stick and Rudder, hosted by John.  Cathy enjoyed a Juicy beer while I had an old-fashioned.  We met Brandon and Jana, the owners of the Stirling Cidery (unfortunately closed for their vacation).  We dined at Pleasant Beach, served by Penny.  We ‘topped off’ our evening with Perry’s ice cream served adjacent to the Cidery!

A quiet night for Cathy and me along the Little Sodus Bay / Lake Ontario!